Don't be real critical if this is your first attempt at the beginner quilting level where everything seems to glare at you!
Entry level quilting requires an enormous amount of self-expectations.
Be aware that every quilt has a story and every quilt-maker is a storyteller especially if you are a beginner .
Many well seasoned quilters deliberately add a mistake to their quilt as a sort of signature that cannot be duplicated.
Beginners require simple and straight forward easy quilt patterns for a fun and relaxed learning experience.
Here is a secret...do you know after washing your quilt several times the best of us would be pressed to pick out any mistake.
I keep a diary on each and every one of my quilts...some I've gotten as gifts and some that my mother made and even some that I've made...
Beginners have to learn a lot of jargon and terminology in order to understand before they can even start with the beginner quilting basics.
On your beginner quilting journey we stay with you and show you how...even answer your questions!
It is not easy to be a beginner. Those of us who want to quilt start with enormous self-expectations...
I suspect this is the very reason beginners succeed!
Growing up we all had a mentor. Maybe not a beginner quilter but maybe one that showed a great enthusiasm for sewing. You know, someone that we wanted to be just like in all ways. Maybe that mentor was our grandma or better yet our mother or our neighbor all of whom had sewing talents.
What drives some quilters is earning a ribbon... or scoring big at the quilt shows or being able to lavish a quilt on the new born!
As we journey on with our "Free Stairway To The Stars" quilt we will learn how to make a quilt block into a full quilt.
A simple border is a perfect fit for the Stairway To The Stars Quilt. It is important to understand a few things about the characteristics of fabric grain.
You can figure out the lengthwise grain of your fabric because the selvage runs parallel to the grain.
That means the selvage and the lengthwise grain always run the same direction.
Another name for lengthwise is warp. Once you cut the selvage off and there is no visual, it is still important to be able to differentiate between the lengthwise and the crosswise directions.
When you pull on the lengthwise grain it most likely will not have much give. When learning how to make a quilt this is one of the hardest points to remember...so break it down to make it easy. Even us 'seasoned' quilters have to stop and think on this one.
The crosswise grain is the width of your fabric (from selvage to selvage). It is also called the weft.
The crosswise grain will likely have a bit more give but it should not stretch permanently.
The weft threads act as the stabilizer and doesn't allow for too much stretching.
To cut on the bias is a true 45 degree angle from the lengthwise and crosswise grains.
Any cut not parallel to one of the grain lines is
called a bias cut...remember this one!
When you tug on the bias there is quite a bit of stretch. With no straight threads to stabilize it, the fabric stretches easily.
Fabric cut on the bias must be handled gingerly. It will lose its shape and will be very difficult to match up with intended adjacent patches.
There are a few do's and don'ts when working with fabric cut on the bias when making a quilt:
With pattern in hand and fabrics selected let's get started with how to make a quilt at the beginner quilting level.
We are ready to cut the fabric into the required shapes for making a quilt.
You do this by following the cutting directions located on How to Make a Quilt - Using the Free Quilt Pattern called Stairway To The Stars.
Rotary cutting is highly accurate and almost guarantees perfect piecing for making a quilt.
Did I mention that anytime you need clarification on any quilting term used on this web site just click on the "Search This Site" button at the upper right hand corner of any page.
Once everything is cut we are ready to piece all those little parts together.
It is best to stitch a scant 1/4-inch seam (a scant 1/4-inch seam and the fold make a true 1/4-inch seam). When turning the fabric to press the seams open, you tend to lose a slight amount in the fold.
If you are a beginner quilting student, always test your finished seam allowance no matter what equipment you use . This is a good idea even if you are an experienced quilter.
Not all sewing machines are equal and not all eyes are equal.
When you first Learn to Quilt always do a quick check using a 6-inch ruler to make sure you get the feel for an exact quarter inch seam.
If you deviate from a quarter inch seam the mistake will multiply itself over the course of completing a block and you will find that all of your blocks will not be the same size.
Your goal as a beginner quilting student is to strive to make all matching blocks the same size. Check and re-check to be sure your seams are exactly 1/4-inch seams after pressed toward the darker side of the fabrics.
I can't say it enough; everything is predicated on a true 1/4-inch seam allowance.
The end of the Civil War brought some of the first sewing machines. The break through allowed a package of needles and a spool of thread to be replaced with a foot treadle and belt driven non-electric sewing machine.
I learned on a treadle Singer Sewing Machine and still have a usable Feather Weight as a part of my display of sewing room furniture today.
Set your iron to a dry setting...no steam. Steam can stretch and distort your pieces and if you happen to press the seam in the wrong direction...it happens! it is more difficult to undo. Don't you love all these tips?
Take your joined pairs to the ironing board and place on the board with the dark fabric facing up. Then 'set' the seam by pressing directly on the seam line before you dis-join or open the pairs.
You set the seam with an up and down motion of the iron...not a push and pull motion of the iron! If you push and pull as if ironing a blouse you will surely stretch the fabric.
Remember, you placed the pairs on the ironing board with the dark fabric on top and the seam allowance facing away from you.
Once seams have been 'set' with the dry iron, clip apart and stack to the left of your iron. Don't reverse the order.
When the patches are opened, the seam will automatically be pressed toward the dark fabric if you placed the pieces on the board exactly how we explained (dark on top and seam facing away).
Traditionally in all quilts the seams are pressed toward the darkest color fabric if at all possible. This way there are no head lights shining through!
Since the seam allowance is a scant 1/4-inch, be careful not to burn your fingers in the pressing process.open
I generally open and flatten the seam allowance by lightly running my thumbnail across the pairs before applying the iron.
This is a terrific tip when leaning how to make a quilt and a necessary forerunner before you actually place the hot iron on the seam to avoid getting burnt!
For those of us who have thin nails this is a sure splitter! Be careful using your thumb nail...it can break!
There is an alternative tool called the little wooden iron which is a real handy gadget when the iron is not available or you don't want to use your thumbnail.
This gives you one more chance to double check that you will be pressing the seam allowance toward the darkest fabric. Remember, once you press it is more difficult to undo!
Now that we have decided on the pattern, selected the fabrics, cut the fabric into required shapes, pieced using the assembly-line process, pressed seams toward the darker fabric, we are ready to match seam intersections.
All these beginner quilting steps contribute to well-matched seam intersections. Not being accurate in any of previous discussed areas can lead to problems when it comes to matching seams.
Pick up and hold two units together between your thumb and forefinger. Then slide the seam allowances in a back and forth motion until you feel the seam drop into place.
The two seams will recess and match exactly. Pin on each side of this seam intersection, placing the pins perpendicular (at right angles) to the fabric edge and with the top of each pin projected out.
With the pin heads facing out it is easy to use them as a navigational tool to assure the seams pass under the feed dogs smoothly. Do not use them to pull the pieces as this is the job for the feed dogs...only use pins to slightly navigate!
If possible, stitch with the seam allowance of the piece underneath facing you and the seam allowance of the top piece away from you. This will assure that the feed dogs will control the seam allowance on the underneath piece and hold it nice and flat.
If it ends up not being flat you should clip one or two stitches, flatten the seam out and then re-stitch. You can use a stiletto or seam ripper to assure the seam on top does not fold under but rather lays nice and flat before re-stitching.
Want to make your quilt just a tad bigger than the pattern shows? Well that is easy to do...just increase the size of your borders.
For a good explanation of the relationship of quilt-to-border visit our page on rules for adding quilt borders.
Our batting guide will give you pointers for choosing the right batting for your quilt.
Clip and save this batting tips for future use. It takes you through the process of selecting the right batting that will be perfect for your new quilt.
Always try to have your backing material the same quality and weight as the top fabrics. A thread count of 70 to 80 is a good choice...less likely to shrink and will wear well.
The reason for this is ease of sewing. Look for one-piece backing. You can find it up to 120-inches wide.
Getting ready to add the quilt backing? Learn how to piece a backing and square it up before quilting.
Decide whether to hand quilt or machine quilt. Maybe you are already a hand sewer so hand quilting would be second nature. Hand quilters know that hand quilting stitches can elevate what was formerly a ho hum top design.
Visit our page on hand quilting for more information on how to conquer this art. We have a few pointers that will get you going.
If you decide to machine quilt you will find that it goes much faster. This is a rewarding skill too. Continuous and Free-motion Quilting can be done on your regular sewing machine...or why not hire the quilting out?
We have a good source! Alice has a longarm machine and enjoys quilting for others. Her Machine Quilting Patterns. are beautiful. Look around the site to see many examples of Alice's workmanship...you can tell she likes what she does.
These steps on how to make a quilt are easy. Feel free to print any of our pages and keep the free quilting instructions for your use. Or better yet, put this in your favorites and come back often. Look around and you will find many, many free quilting instructions on this site! Be sure and visit our Machine Quilting Patterns and Continuous Line Quilting Patterns for quilting ideas on quilting quilts.
The quilting stencil should be about an inch to a quarter inch smaller than the block to be quilted.
Maintain this size ratio between the quilting and the size of the block.
Here's a tip to compute this ratio. Simply divide the DESIRED length or width by the ACTUAL length or width; then multiply by 100 to get the percentage of enlargement or reduction.
Example:the block is 8"; the template is 5"; 8/5 = 1.6 X 100 equals 160 percent. Using a photo copier, enlarge the template by 160 percent.
We created a chart at the bottom of this page that you can print and save.
There are a couple of ways to bind a quilt. In both cases you start with a square of fabric large enough to make the necessary amount of binding to go around your quilt.
To decide which method is best for your quilt visit our page on binding a quilt.
You will find a guide on the amount of yardage you will need to go around your quilt plus many other tips and suggestions for a perfect binding.
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quote by Alice
Pattern Of Month - this quilt changes each month, so click on POM to see the currently featured quilt!
Squaring the Fabric
Avoid the Bends
How to Press
Handling Bias Edges
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Gee, you really do answer all questions. The 8-point star pattern is great with very little hassles. Wish you had it sized for a full size bed. Sharon, Ohio
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Freda here, WOW! your site is a pleasure to browse through. Great tips...Keep them coming!
This is one of many Crown Royal quilts we have made...No, we don't indulge...We buy our Crown Royal bags from E-Bay!
Just wanted to thank you for the wonderful review and recommendation of our Universal Thread Holder and 'Easy Winder' bobbin winder. It is sew nice to be accepted and acknowledged by the Pro's in this industry.
Love the patterns, thank you so much!
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